Lamp Shades 101- Mastering the Basics

Lamp shades are often under-rated by home owners in the realm of home decor. Experienced interior decorators know that the perfect lamp shade can add so much to a room. Everyone knows that lighting is important. Picking the right lamp shade can actually affect the amount of light in a room.

In this blog post, we will go over the very basics when it comes to lamp shades:

1. Shape

The lamp shade's shape is the most basic quality of a lamp shade. The shape helps to determine how traditional or modern, how edgy or average the shade looks. Here are some sample shapes and their attributes:

Drum is one of the most common shapes. This particular shade is in our Jamie Young shade collection. Drums are typically very contemporary, and can be a "transitional" piece; a way of melding a traditional lamp in a modern-looking room. These are typically pretty cost effective and come in a variety of fabrics.

  
Empire is the classic shade shape. Most lamps in big box stores come with an empire shade, and they are what people picture when they first think of a lamp shade. It's a very "safe" shape, and will work in a variety of environments. Use an empire when you don't want to pull attention away from the lamp. Of course, any shade shape be transformed into the extraordinary by a striking fabric or pleat pattern. Empires can also be called open cones, depending on the harshness of the taper, or the size difference of the top and bottom openings.

The coolie shade is a classic, elegant and very traditional shape. It stems back from the days when lamps had a wick and oil. Although the words usage in modern day is considered offensive, a "coolie" was considered to be an Asian laborer in times past. The traditional hats that they wore to protect themselves from the sun had the extreme taper that we now recognize in modern day coolie shades. These tend to be on the pricier side, and pair well with eastern-style porcelain lamps.

The pagoda shade is another "oriental" traditional shade shape. The name derives from a form of eastern architecture that is often used in temples and traditional structures. These can be quite expensive due to their complex frame and stitching work. They are striking, and add a touch of elegance that is hard to compete with.

For the delicate traditional look, scalloped bottom edges add elegance (and price) to any shade shape.

Back to more modern shapes, the rectangle and square can add a strong statement to a lamp.

To add complexity or to soften the hard edges, a cut corner can be added to a rectangle, triangle or tapered rectangle. This adds complexity, and therefore expense, to the shade.

There are many additional shapes such as bell, carlile and others.

 2. Size

Once you get past the complexities of shape, sizing the shade can be difficult to follow as well. When "shading" a lamp, it is essential that you have the lamp with you, and not rely on the previous shade, especially if you are changing shapes. 

On a skinnier floor lamp, you may want a more slender shade. On a fat porcelain lamp, a large coolie might look more appropriate. Unfortunately, there is no set rule for sizing. Fortunately, this makes the process more fun! You can play with different sizes, and typically you will be able to trust your eyes for the proper proportions.

Custom shades give designers the ability to "design by the inch". They can tweak dimensions, adding a little depth to a rectangle, or more of a taper to an empire. It is highly recommended that you have experience when exploring this route, as these shades get tremendously more expensive (and tremendously less refundable).

3. Fabric

An incredibly important component to your shade is the fabric that you use. A typical 18" diameter drum shade can be rustic or industrial, art deco or traditional, contemporary and airy or pleated and fancy. We'll discuss several different fabrics below:

"Paper" or Parchment

The most cost effective and flexible, paper is very useful. It is typically used in more contemporary settings, but it can be employed in a more relaxed traditional area as well. Paper is very opaque, and often shouldn't be used as a main source of light. The interior can be lined with a variety of colors, including a reflective gold or silver lining, which adds additional warmth to the lamp.

Of course, there are countless colors and types of parchment (vellum, waxed) that can be ordered.

Linen  

Linen shades are very transitional. They can be used in a variety of settings. Once again, there are many different kinds and colors, ranging  from very see through to completely opaque and gold lined (like the chandelier shade above). Different linens such as butchers linen can have very course textures when under the light.

Silk

A beautiful shade from our sister store, Illume NYC

Silk is the classic material used on shades. There is now synthetic silk available for the classic look without the cost, as well as the real thing. Silk can have "slub", or streaks, or it can be super smooth. Silk can often be pleated (as seen above), and there are many different types of pleats (i.e. french pleat). 

    
Raffia and Other Rustic/Natural Materials

 For a more rustic or country cottage look, check out some of the natural materials that shades can be made out of. Raffia is a straw that is traditionally made in baskets in areas of the world such as Thailand. There are also shades available in cow hide or faux cow hide, perfect for a rustic hunting cabin.


We have only just barely scratched the surface on what there is to know about lamp shades. The materials, shapes and methods have been around for centuries, and many stem from long traditions that pre-date electricity. Our store offers thousands of in-stock lamp shades, making us a must-see location for serious interior designers, and even the likes of Martha Stewart, who invited our owner on her show to discuss techniques for shading lamps!

 Here's the video!

In addition, we send out thousands of orders for custom lamp shades each year to be featured in beautiful new homes, hotels and hospitals. Our shades are also going to be featured in the upcoming film, The Wolf of Wall Street featuring Leonardo DiCaprio!

 

  
Visit our website for a limited selection of our massive shade collection. Visit our store in Stamford, Connecticut for a one-of-a-kind experience!













    

Incandescent Light Bulb Types

The world of light bulbs is vast, and can be confusing. See our earlier post Light Bulbs 101: What am I Looking for? for our intro course. If you already visited that page, we will dive a little deeper!

1. Base

Every light bulbs have a base. Some light bulbs, usually halogen, will have a more complicated and unfamiliar base, such as a bi-pin or a GU10 like this one:

If your bulb is an incandescent, you will typically have six different base types.

Mogul- The largest size, reserved for high wattage bulbs.

Standard (also known as Edison or Medium)-

Looks familiar? This is your standard sized bulb with the "Edison" base. This will fit into most regular sockets, and most people have lamps or fixtures that carry this size.

Candelabra- 

This size is featured a lot in chandeliers and wall sconces. They are typically reserved for smaller and more decorative bulbs (like this torpedo bulb as shown), and usually gives off less light. We carry these from 10 watts up to 60 watts, although you will typically use only a 40 watt maximum in most fixtures.

European-

Obviously, these go into European fixtures.
 

Intermediate-

Just like it sounds, it's a size in between candelabra and standard. Not used as much, you'll find this size in some appliances, indicator bulbs and tubular bulbs.

Bayonet- 

 

There are a few different types and sizes of bayonet bases, and these aren't very common in light fixtures.
 
2. Sizing and Shapes

Light bulb sizes and shapes are standardized in the United States with a simple naming system. Just like the bases have a letter/number code. Incandescent bulb size is determined by measuring the bulb's diameter at it's widest point. The measurement is written in 8ths of an inch increments. 

For example, your typical looking light bulb:

 

Is a type A look that is 2 3/8 inches in diameter. The 2 3/8 is translated into 19/8", so the bulb type is "A19".

"A"s are the bulb shape that you always think of when thinking about light bulbs.

"G"s are globe bulbs. Used with vanity mirrors in bathrooms, in pop culture you think of broadway or dressing rooms for theatres.

    
"B10"s are torpedo shaped.

 

"BA"s are flame tipped.

 

Other important bulbs shapes:

R's and BR's are spotlight bulbs.

PAR's are a special type of spotlight bulb. More durable and used outdoors or indoors. Typically halogen.

Of course there are many other types of bulb shapes!

3. Coating

The coating of the bulb determines several lighting characteristics. The amount of light that shines, the direction and width of the beam, the color/mood of the light and how much glare exists. For instance, on a see through fixture, you may not want to use a clear bulb that will blind people in the room! But clear might be apappropriate for stronger lighting. 

Clear-

This type shines in a whitish yellow, broadcasts the light and produces significant glare. Most efficient for the amount of energy output.      

Frosted-

A softer light, typically more yellow in tone. Decorative, and can produce a lot of light, but needs a higher wattage to do so.

Satin White- 

Produces a specific soft white light, very decorative but doesn't broadcast light as well.

Silver Crowned-

The bulb is dipped in silver at the bottom. Great for a pendant! Keeps glare at bay and looks great in a modern fixture.

      
Colors- Can cover with any color to produce reds, blues, yellows, etc. Good for special events, parties or unique fixtures.  




In the world of light bulbs, it's easy to get confused. Follow these tips and you'll soon be a light bulb expert! 


Acknowledgments: Special thanks to Satco Products for providing us this information in their products guide, and for all of their awesome light bulbs!